Stockholm: Green Space, Neighborhood Islands, & Dragon Tattoos

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Stockholm is actually an archipelago, connected not only by bridges and waterways, but by a distinct Scandinavian culture. While the four most popular neighborhoods share a common theme, each island also exudes a unique personality of its own. One possesses a charming historic center that is intertwined with cobblestone streets and a royal past, while another is a Parisian twin that luxuriates with ornate apartments and upscale boutiques. The bustling young one is filled to the edges with energy, art, and up-and-coming “fill-in-the-blanks”, while the island of green conserves Swedish nature, culture, and recreation.

Arrive: How to Get There

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3 Words, Take the Metro! It’s easy and affordable. Just ask the reps what you take to get to your destination and they will help.

Stay: Where to Set Up Your Base

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Our apartment was situated in Ostermalm (more about that area below), which is why it might have been pretty pricey for Airbnb. While I was a fan of the location’s walkability, you can also check out Sodermalm (close to the bridge to Gamla Stan) for variety. It was a quick and easy 6 minute walk from the closest metro stop. If you have mobility issues, consider a different spot because you need to scale 3 levels of winding steps to reach the apartment.

Overall: The high ceilings and white-washed decorative tones throughout made this one of the most beautiful Airbnb stays I’ve had so far. I felt like I was house sitting for a tasteful gentleman bachelor on the Upper West Side.

To make matters even more fantastical, I have one word for you: SONOS! This guy really knows how to hook it up musically. Easily connected via your phone, this magical system had speakers in every room of the apartment. Whether you needed some peaceful Jazz to settle down from a long day of walking or some quick-tempo House to rev up for a night out on the town, the sounds will surround you in musical bliss.

Living: Cozy living room equipped with Smart TV. Of course Sweden is one of the only Non-English speaking countries that do not dub their cable TV, but the reruns of Parks & Rec were obviously appreciated. There is also a balcony off this room that overlooks the apartment’s courtyard. Perfect place to sip coffee or wine.

Kitchen: Fully equipped, but no coffee love from the caffeine gods.

Bathroom: Standard european. Also, standard dude with no hair dryer.

Bedroom: Comfy bed!

Explore: Things to Do

Stroll Around

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Aside from the specifics below, just wandering around Stockholm gives you a feel for the city. During our stay, the Culture Festival was happening, so we kept on stumbling upon awesome concerts throughout the city. If the weather is feeling nice, a walking tour would probably be a great idea. Unfortunately, the rain gods were very active throughout our stay.

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Gamla Stan / Old Town

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Similar to every European city, Stockholm has an Old Town named Gamla Stan.

IMG_8391.jpgSituated on it’s own island, quaint buildings shaded with quintessential Scandinavian colors loom over narrow cobblestone walking streets.

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Royal Palace

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While many visitors take a journey within, we opted to only marvel at the palace from the outside. While the architecture is on the modest side (for a Royal palace), you really can’t miss this architecture of grandeur as it dramatically monopolizes the Gamla Stan city-scape. If time allows and especially if kids are in tow, find your way through the cobblestone streets to the palace entrance at 12pm where you can catch the changing of the guards, which includes a neat military band that rocks a set of trombones and saxophones during the ceremony.

Nobel Peace Museum

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1+ hour

Within the confines of this historical neighborhood, you will find a modest yet modern museum memorializing Nobel winners and their works. If you are pressed for time, skip this. If you have time to kill and the weather is killing you, check it out.

Sodermalm

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The “youngest” and most populated, we found plenty of coffee shops and trend along  Sodermalm streets. During the walking tour below, we were able to tackle the two touted viewpoints and they are certainly worth it.

Millennium Walking Tour

90 minutes

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If you were breathing in the USA during 2012, you at least heard about The Girl with The Dragon Tattoo. Hopefully, you made the right decision and read Steig Larson’s trilogy following BAMF Lisbeth Salander as she kicks ass and takes names. Henry and I both not only read the “millennium” books, but placed them on our top 10 lists during the Millennium-thon in the states. So, we were pretty pumped when we found out that Stockholm offered one of the “top Literary walking tours” according to Lonely Planet (yea, there is a list for that).

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Lisbeth’s 27 room penthouse is real (the green top).

During this 90 minute walking tour, they bring Stieg Larsson’s characters to life as you are guided through the streets of Sodermalm, stopping at a myriad of significant locations in the novel like the Millennium office and Lisbeth Salander’s luxury apartment. The knowledgeable guide also offers “A-ha”’ info hiding behind the text…like Lisbeth’s striking similarity to a well-known children’s character and the significance of the neighborhood Sodermalm.

 

This was probably one of my favorite activities that we did in Stockholm, so I highly recommend it if you read and enjoyed the books. If you sign up, a tip: refresh your memory about the plot lines using SparkNotes or Schmoop. Not only will it remind you about how much you hate Niels Bjurman, but it’ll help you activate your knowledge while on the tour.

Fotografiska

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1+ hour

If you are a fan of photography or even just the art of creativity, visit Fotografiska! This museum has rotating exhibitions that capture multiple artistic categories. For our visit, there were about 5 installations that presented us with powerful social issues, controversial environmental problems, and dazzling pop culture. The layout is clean and digestible. By the end of it, I was ready to save elephants, respect Romanians, and under the impression that I could be the next Annie Lebowitz.

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We always try to explore the yuppifying area because it is in these neighborhoods where you can find the edgy art and experimental food of the youngest generation. Long story short is that we failed in this venture; we opted to walk what looked walkable and when we finally arrived 1,000 miles later, we could only find a shopping mall.

Djugarden 

*Runner Alert*

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You learn relatively quickly that Stockholm is greener than most cities, protected by years and years of preservation action. Nestled on its own island, you will find the vast and beautiful Djugarden park. This green-scape is jam-packed with cafes, museums, and wildlife that either overlook serene marinas of the Baltic or are nestled in between beautifully dense nature. Here you can find Skansen (below), Rosendal Gardens, the Vasa Museum, and Grunar Land. If you only have a few hours in Stockholm and want peace, this is where you should retreat to.

If you are a runner and based nearby, this is the gem to break a sweat in.

Skansen Open-Air Museum

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IMG_82543+ hours

You also learn that the city likes to have a little fun with it’s history. Tucked away in the green is “Skansen”, a multi-faceted park that highlights Swedish history and culture.

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IMG_8286Take a stroll back in time to experience how the Swedes have lived for centuries…and you won’t just relish in the quaint old shops and grounds, you’ll be able to speak with character actors who are dressing the part, too! Open up doors to various shops and houses—ask questions to the owners and residents. Cheesy, yes, but it was interesting, too!

IMG_8249When we had our fill of period theater (and Swedish cinnamon buns from the bakery), we visited the open-air zoo that housed animals from all over Sweden; bears, seals, moose (meese?), and warthogs. Sounds a bit flat, but the bear exhibit was my favorite. There were four cubs and a mamma bear scrounging around for food. So fascinating to watch their grubby little paws search for leftover yummies.

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Ostermalm

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This neighborhood is the Upper West Side of Stockholm. Riddled with Cosmetic Surgery Centers and high-end shops, Ostermalm is quite ostentatious. Worth a walk-by if you have time because in my opinion, the ornate architecture and vibe in this neighborhood closely resembles the beautiful city of Paris.

Royal Canal Tour

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50 minutes

I’m not the biggest fan of sightseer tour buses or boats, unless I am really pressed for time in the planning department. However, I read that the Royal Canal Tour was a must-do since it is the best way to view the chain of island cities. Departing from ____________, we did this the first day to get a feel for Stockholm. While it most definitely felt cheesy and touristy, its always important to learn about the high-level history of a city; to understand it’s layout, architecture, people, and culture. This tour provided exactly that via the buildings and hot spots we passed.

Grub: Things to Consume

Nordic Ice Bar

IMG_6292.jpgBefore Stockholm, we were Ice Bar virgins. I’ve come across these in Vegas and NYC, but never really had the desire. But, when a lot of different blogs and friends were recommending this in Stockholm, I figured that maybe we were missing out on some icy awesomeness. Well, my *FOMO instinct led us in the wrong direction. Listen, I am a cheese-ball who is easily impressed by anything and a bar made completely out of ice was pretty cool, but the anti-climactic ice bar experience wasn’t for me. I would’ve been happier spending the time at a local bar.

*Fear of Missing Out =)

Stockholm Gastabud

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Situated in Gamla Stan, this authentic Swedish restaurant presents a tiny space with big flavors. Since I am officially addicted, I had Swedish Meatballs with Lingonberries and Henry had the Swedish Sausage dish. The meal and wine was yummy. I recommend!

Donuts

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I’m a sucker for cool signs. Henry is under the impression that if a creepy vehicle had approached me as a child, it’s not the candy that would’ve been a threat, but if the van had a creative logo—i’d be in trouble. Near the bridge to Gamla Stan, there is a Donut stand. The Donuts are delicious, but not life-changing.

Saluhall

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If you are staying somewhere with a kitchen, hit up this fresh food market in Ostermalm. Most of the stands are for tasty “take-away”, but there are a few options to sit and dine.

The Future: For Next Time

Vasa Museum

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One of the top-rated attractions of Stockholm, this museum is centered around a historic expedition ship. After traipsing though multiple ship museums in Norway (seeing a Scandinavian trend here), we were vessel-ed out.

Grunar Land

IMG_8410.jpgThe Tivoli Gardens of Stockholm is an adventure park that overlooks the Baltic. Stocked with rides and amusement, this hot-spot is a great stop for families.