Venice is a labyrinth of narrow streets and unique bridges that flow through a tight-knit family of 118 mini islands. This unparallelled scene is a magical place for one to wander; through secret passageways and bustling piazzas that are oftentimes perched on the edge of the winding and shimmering canals that pour through the city. Strict conservation regulations have freed the architecture to speak volumes of the past. From quaint apartments to lavish Catholic churches, diminishing paint and concrete expose layers of brick and history. In many areas like the famed Piazzo San Marco or Grand Canal, it is difficult to ignore the touristic carnival that is constantly on parade. The local population is getting lost among this crowd, with only 55,000 residents going about their daily lives among 75,000 sightseers per day. However, the enchanting natural setting of Venice will quickly refocus your fascination and awe.
THE SKINNY:
- The restaurants that showcase pictures of food are not local staples.
- If you are tight on $ and can’t fathom spending $80 on a 30 minute Gondola ride, ride the Vaporetti #1 to see the same sights for less. (disclaimer: less romance, too…)
- If you are in the market for an authentic masquerade mask, do not buy them from souvenir stores. Find the shops where you can literally watch the artists create the masterpieces.
- Be sure to read the fine print! Many restauraunts include a service fee.
ARRIVE:
We arrived to Venice main land by car from the Dolomites. The Europcar office was right next to the train station, so we hopped on the commuter train towards the island.
If you also find yourself in Mestre (the main land) needing to get to the historic island center of Venice, look at the departure boards at the Mestre Train Station for “Venezia S.L.,” or “Venezia Santa Lucia.” This is the station you want to select when buying tickets from the Trenitalia machines in the station.
Before boarding, be sure to validate your ticket at one of the handy machines. Failure to do so could result in a fine and that’s no way to kick-off a vacation. Once you board the train, wait about 10-12 minutes and voila! Welcome to the real Venezia.
STAY:
There are six different sestieris (neighborhoods) of Venice and we chose to stay in this HomeAway property in Dorsoduro. Not the homiest of apartments I’ve stayed in, but it was spacious, had a great view, and generally did the trick! I’d recommend this place for the location alone.
Dorsoduro is an artistic and youthful area; filled to the brim with bustling students and local art. While no place can really escape the pandemic touches of tourism, Dorsoduro does its best to produce a local feel.
Located on the southern shore of Venice island, this neighborhood quietly showcases the Zaterre promenade — which stretches along the coast. Here, you can sip espresso, watching the boats float by and locals walking their dogs.
Through the winding streets, you’ll come across unspoiled canal views and cozy family restaurants. Interweaving throughout Dorsoduro is a bustling student body that keeps the bars open a tad bit later than the rest of tame Venice.
EXPLORE:
The best way to explore Venice is not only by land, but by water, too! Wander aimlessly through each of the sestieris and you will get wanderfully lost (promise, maybe even a little hectic-ly lost…). In order to orient ourselves with the vibe and culture of this fascinating city, we sought assistance from Free Walking Tour of Venice and a DIY Grand Canal Tour.
While you get quintessentially lost in Venice, there are many architectural and historical gems that are worth passing–equally as pleasing from the outside if you don’t have time to step in. With that in mind, I’ve broken down my guide into a few different sections:
- Free Walking Tour
- DIY Grand Canal Tour
- Noteworthy Stops or Passes
- 1/2 Day Trips Into the Lagoon
- Venetian “Day in the Life”
DIY Grand Canal Tour
While I’ve heard that your heart can just explode from the romance, I just could not justify 30 minutes on a Gondola for $80 USD. If you are like me, dont fret! You can make your own Grand Canal Tour by taking Vaporetti #1.
To score a good seat (I vote for a seat in the front/outside area), consider starting at the ACTV’s Piazzale Roma stop. In 40 minutes, you will zig-zag across the blue waters of the Grand Canal; seeing a very different perspective of the island.
Free Walking Tour
As always, we jumped on a Free Walking tour — aptly named Venice Free Walking Tour. This outfitter shys away from the touristic area of St. Marks since other sestiere hold such fascinating histories. You can choose your area of exploration! I am a career professional in Free Walking Tours and love how you can usually jump onto them without notifying the company. Don’t expect to easily do this here! Since they have a variety of starting points at different times, they don’t all run at every single start time. With that said, book yours in advance! (One day before should be fine!)
While our guide, Shannon, wasn’t local or the most enthusiastic speaker, she was very knowledgeable. She shared so many historical nuggets that I was hooked the whole 3 hours. Overlooked architecture was brought to life throughout Cannaregio and Castello.
Piazza San Marco
Welcome to the most popular tourist area located in one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. Sounds a little crowded and inauthentic, doesn’t it? Well, you aren’t going to FEEL like your lost in Italy here, but I do think that it’s certainly worth a peak.
This massive square is surrounded by historical giants and modern high fashion boutiques. Famous for it’s pigeons (not sure why since they are little rat rascals with wings), you’ll surely pass a few willing tourists with seeds in their hands and pigeons on their arms. The three power players here are Doge’s Place, St. Mark’s Basilica, and St. Mark’s Campanile.
From what I’ve read, it sounds like a lot of visitors enjoyed seeing the inside of the Palace and Basilica, but we only opted to go to the top of the Campanile. Do this! It’s one of the few ancient towers that I’ve climbed where an elevator is your mode of transport and not 297 winding steps. Once at the top, bell towers break through the million orange rooftops that surround you. You can literally trace the shoreline from Dorsoduro to Cannaregio. The views are simply spectacular.
Just around the corner from Doge’s Palace (on the water side), you will find the famous Bridge of Sighs. It’s an intricate gothic design that shouldn’t be missed if you are this closeby!
Rialto Bridge
This renowned bridge is one of only a few that cross over the Grand Canal. Again, it is one of the Venetian sights that are neat to see in reality, but expect to wonder how many tourists one bridge can hold.
Peggy Guggenheim Museum
At the East end of Dorsoduro is the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. A small collection of thought-provoking modern art that includes Picasso, Dali, and Pollock. If you’re there at the right time, a curator may be giving a lecture on an art period, artist, or style. For example, we stumbled upon a lesson on the history of Cubism. If you are not a fan of modern art, don’t bother. If you are, it is worth a visit!
La Biennale di Venezia in Castello
La Biennale is was one of my favorite places in all of Venice. While you are “close to nature” in terms of the sea, the tight alleyways can feel a bit claustrophobic after awhile. Head to La Biennale di Venezia in Castello to breathe a little. Littered with trees and benches, it’s a great place to take a stroll or a run.
Ghetto de Campo
The Jewish Quarter memorializes the community of Holocaust victims that once lived in Venice. Modest, yet somber; it is a good place to recognize just how far-reaching the Third Reich was.
San Giorgio Maggiore
Santa Maria della Salute
One of the only churches in Venice that you can enter free of charge. The intricacy of the architecture alone is well worth the walk.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
Santa Maria Formosa
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Also impressive are: Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, Scuola Grande di San Rocco and Santa Maria Zobenigo.
1/2 DAY TRIPS
If you are lingering in Venice for 3 days or more, I highly recommend a half-day trip via Vaporetti. The most popular options are Murano, Burano, Torcelli, and Lido (beach). After learning what each of the islands in the Venetian Lagoon stood for, we opted for Burano and Lido.
Lido
If for some spectacular reason I had to move to Venice, this is where I would relocate. While it’s not as California cool as my hometown of Venice beach, it fits the bill of the beachy persona within the Venetian Lagoon. Facing less architectural regulation than the main island, this area has a much more modern and airy feel. To find a public beach is easy: once off the “Lido” ferry, walk down the main street for about 15 minutes until you reach the end. Soak up the rays and take a dip in the Venetian Lagoon. If you have time, you can also rent a bike and explore more of this skinny island!
Burano
This island is abound with bright color! Everywhere you turn, your eyes are met with houses painted with every color of the rainbow. Bright purples, blues, reds, yellows shine vivid in the sunshine and even reflect strongly onto the canals.
In fact, this archipelago is four tiny islands connected by charming white-picket bridges. It truly is a paradise for the snap-happy. This community thrives from intricate lace-making, so you are in luck if you are in the market for beautifully crafted clothes, table linens, or tapestries.
The legend behind the lace is a fun tale to tell. A mythical siren sought to tempt a fisherman, but his faithfulness held steady. Impressed by his devotion, she gifted him an ornate lace veil made from the white caps of the sea. After bringing it back to his loved one, the community was inspired to show adoration and love through lace.
We wandered the streets in awe of the energy – stopping for some gelato and beers along the way!
GRUB:
When I was little, I used to think I was Italian because I loved Spaghetti so much. With that said, I am semi-biased about Italian food because it all tastes like heaven to me – including the following places:
Ristorante Le Bitte
Order the Papardelle Ragu and thank me later!
Ristorante Da Cherubino
The pizza is yummy, but the wine pours are something else!
pane vino e San Daniele
Delicious pasta with such pleasant and welcoming service. Can you tell I have a pappardelle addiction?
Venetian “Day in the Life”
The reason I’d like to showcase the lovely locals of Venice is in memory of their diminishing space and deteriorating culture. Many Venetians are disheartened by the level of tourism and suggest that the future belongs to “Venezia Land” — an island completely geared towards visitors.
